Savor the Bold Filipino Bakes at This New Lincoln Square Spot
Del Sur has officially opened its doors, bringing unique Filipino-inspired pastries like longanisa croissants and ube kringles to Lincoln Square.
Pastry chef Justin Lerias beams from behind the display case, now at the helm of his very own bakery after years of careful planning. With stints at Big Jones and Lost Larson behind him, Lerias has launched Del Sur, nearly a year after signing the lease and eight years since first dreaming it up in his high school journals.
The compact 1,200-square-foot bakery sits next to the Brown Line Damen stop. Del Sur's offerings - from calamansi-chamomile rolls to turon danishes and longanisa-stuffed croissants — first came to life during the pandemic, evolving from home experiments to pop-ups at Side Practice Coffee, a Filipino-inspired café across from Amundsen High School. Side Practice’s founder, Francis Almeda, who’s also behind Kanin and Novel Pizza Cafe, has played a key advisory role in Del Sur’s growth, though Lerias stops short of calling him a co-owner.
A Creative Celebration of Heritage and Innovation
Originally from Mindanao and raised on Chicago’s North Side, Lerias brings both worlds together through his food. At just 24, he’s already made a name for himself with a style that blends introspection and innovation.
He’s given his small team one guiding principle: skip the basics. For example, their “plain” croissant includes a mix of local wild rice and Asian black rice for added flavor and texture. Other inventive options include an adobo brownie made with bay leaf brown butter, soy caramel, and pink peppercorns, and ube-filled kringles, a nod to classic Midwest treats with a Filipino twist.
Trimmings from croissant dough are turned into seasonal hand pies, while kolaches and sourdough loaves are also in rotation. A kolache with sweet pork belly and egg is on the horizon - pending relief from high egg prices.
Drinks with Personality
Coffee drinks at Del Sur feature beans from Four Letter Word and Ceramic Coffee Roasters, while tea and matcha come from Volition Tea. Lerias, who is lactose-intolerant, ensures alternative milks come at no extra charge.
House-made syrups include salted pandan, dark mocha, and caramelized honey, and the menu features creative drinks like a matcha-tamarind spritz with Tajín and a turon latte made with banana peel-infused milk.
Design, Details, and a Deeper Mission
Del Sur’s interiors feature lime-washed walls, wood accents, and terra cotta flooring. A standout vintage glass case from Scout in Andersonville showcases pastries, while a linen curtain separates the kitchen from the front counter. Nearly all the equipment is secondhand - including the espresso machine, a gift from Side Practice.
A display of products made by friends - from Filipino chocolate to chili jam and Edgewater-made candles - highlights Lerias’s commitment to community and fair trade. Framed photos of loved ones and thoughtful pastry box designs (featuring hidden messages and symbolic illustrations) add a personal touch.
For now, Del Sur is takeout-only, but Lerias is eyeing an expansion into the adjacent space for indoor seating. Support for the venture has been strong.
Del Sur, 4639 N. Damen Avenue, is open Thursday through Sunday, 8 a.m. to 3 p.m.
